Oceana Mackenzie steps into the competition, confronting her first “problem” — an intimidating four-and-a-half-meter wall marked with an array of seemingly random protrusions. Bouldering, a sport climbing sub-discipline, demands an impressive blend of gymnastic strength and mental sharpness. The 22-year-old from Melbourne must ascend the wall in as few attempts as possible.
Climbers approach their problems without prior knowledge; the arrangement of boulders on the wall changes constantly as “route setters” devise new ways to challenge athletes. Before each heat, competitors are separated in an isolation room, preventing them from observing earlier participants tackle that day’s problems. As Mackenzie steps onto the stage before a cheerful crowd of 6,000 on a sunny Tuesday morning in a suburban area of Paris, her first challenge lies in strategizing — drawing upon her years of climbing experience to map an effective route to the summit.
Fortunately, the task before her was favorable. Mackenzie took a brief, curious glance at the wall, her head tilted slightly as she assessed her surroundings, before applying chalk to her hands. And then she was off — one hand here, another foot there, an arm extended over yonder — climbing the wall’s face with remarkable ease and agility. Bouldering is scored in five segments, each worth five points. Successfully reaching the top earns a climber 25 points, with deductions for unsuccessful previous attempts. Athletes tackle four problems throughout a heat for a maximum score of 100.
Mackenzie swiftly tackled the first scoring position, and then the second. Before the crowd could fully absorb the spectacle, she was already at the summit of the problem. Climbers are allowed five minutes per wall; the Australian conquered it in only 30 seconds. It marked the first perfect score of the day. Perhaps in acknowledgment of Mackenzie’s heritage, the venue DJ played a remix by Australian artist Dom Dolla during her ascent.
“I initially approached the first boulder feeling pretty nervous,” Mackenzie reflected afterward. “However, I realized it really suited my style and began feeling confident and determined. I knew if I just gave it my all, I could ‘flash it’ — complete it on my first attempt — and from that point on, I felt quite good.”
Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020, where Mackenzie placed 19th. Yet, like many newer sports, climbing faced some initial challenges upon its inclusion in the Olympics.
The sport features three main subcategories: bouldering (unroped, resulting in free falls), lead (where climbers have one six-minute attempt to ascend a 15-meter wall as high as possible), and speed — a timed race up a 15-meter wall with a slight incline (world-class athletes can complete this in under six seconds).
At Tokyo, all three events were combined, despite each demanding distinctly different skill sets. It’s akin to asking 100m sprinters to also perform high jumps and run the 1,500m race. For Paris, in response to some concerns within the sport, speed climbing has been separated into its own event, while lead and bouldering remain combined.
For spectators, bouldering captures attention, with four climbers tackling four different problems simultaneously. When the buzzer signals the end of five minutes, volunteers use long poles to wipe off chalk from the boulders, readying the stage for the next four athletes. The atmosphere is energetic — there’s always someone on the wall, contemplating their strategy, or dramatically plunging onto the padded floor below.
After her successful first problem, Mackenzie enjoys a five-minute break. She dons her headphones and plays some K-pop (Stray Kids). “I was really vibing, it was a good time,” she recounts. She glances at her nails, painted with Aboriginal flags, before gearing up for the second problem.
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In theory, problems are ranked from easiest to hardest, yet the first problem had confounded competitors, with Mackenzie being one of only two climbers to achieve a perfect 25 on the initial wall. The second problem posed slightly more of a challenge for her. She nearly completed her first attempt, lunging towards the top point on the wall but unable to hold on, free-falling onto the mat. After applying more chalk and taking a moment to assess the wall, Mackenzie returned for a near-perfect score of 24.9.
The third problem proved more complex — requiring intricate repositioning followed by careful movement to navigate to the final section. After struggling on two attempts, Mackenzie successfully completed it on her third try, earning another near-perfect score of 24.8. However, the fourth problem ultimately eluded her, with only the first segment achieved, resulting in a score of 4.9. Nevertheless, her cumulative score secured her fourth place overall, positioning Mackenzie favorably for a potential final qualification, with the lead event scheduled for Thursday morning still to come.
Combining mental challenge with physical prowess, sport climbing is an exciting new addition to the Olympic events. “It’s a mix of various elements because there are many challenges on the wall — flexibility being one,” Mackenzie comments, hinting at her three strenuous attempts to conquer the last segment on the third problem. “Strength, along with having a resilient mindset and confidence during bouldering can be tremendously beneficial. You must be a well-rounded athlete.”
